Tuesday, February 24, 2015

Pheasant Tail Nymph

Pheasant Tail Nymph

Thread; Brown
Hook; Mustad 3906B #16
Weight; .010 lead wire
Tail; Pheasant Tail tips
Rib; small copper wire
Abdomen; pheasant tail fibers
Wing pad; pheasant tail fibers
Thorax; peacock herl
Legs; pheasant tail tips

Here are some of the Materials I use and good soothing music gives me a little more patience.

1. Thread base shank of hook and bring thread to where it hangs down touching the point of the hook.

2. Counter wrap .010 lead wire from this point forward leaving plenty of room behind hook eye. Bring thread to hook bend.

 3. Pull some pheasant tail fibers off a canter tail of a pheasant. I use the fibers that has the brownish fuzzy ends. Maybe around 8 to 10 fibers. Measure the tips for the tail at 3/4 the hook length. Tie down fibers at bend as shown.


 4. Tie in copper wire. A couple of wraps behind the pheasant strands and a few wraps in front. Bring thread to just in front of lead wire.

 5. I use a wire clamp tool and grab the pheasant tail fibers by the ends. I’ll twist the fibers a turn just before wrapping the body.
  
 6. Wrap over the copper wire and then wind the fibers forward with even tight wraps. If the fibers start splitting apart twist the fibers with the tool as you go.
When you get in front of the lead wire tie off and clip ends.

7. Counter wrap the copper wire in open wraps to where you tied in the pheasant tail body. Counter wrapping will keep the fibers from coming apart from the fish teeth. Clip off wire and secure.




8. Bring thread about 1/3 back from the hook eye.

9. Measure about 7-8 pheasant tail fibers the length of the hook.

 10. Tie down fibers 1/3 way back from the hook eye
Trim loose ends of fibers and secure. Bring thread back to right in front of fibers.

11. Tie in two strips of peacock herl. Bring thread to just shy of hook eye.



12. Wrap herl, one wrap in front of other, to thread and tie down.



 13. Trim herl and bring thread right behind hook eye.

14. Fold loose pheasant tail fibers forward over herl to hook eye. Try to lay them flat as you secure with a few of thread wraps.

15. Spit pheasant tail end in front of hook eye.



16. With thumb and finger push the loose fibers back along side of thorax and secure behind hook eye.



 17. I use a half hitch tube, with two turns of the thread, to slide the thread behind hook eye. Or you can whip finish.
I add head cement to thread head and if you want coat wing pad with head cement or rod varnish.

~doubletaper

Wednesday, February 18, 2015

Dt's Ant

Aunt Vis

  For the past few years I’ve been looking for an ant pattern that was easy to tie, fit the profile and was easy to see. I’ve tried my hand at tying something up but failed for some time. I finally came up with this and after showing it on a fly tying sight people liked it so I decided to do a tutorial on it. 

Aunt Vis

 Material; Not much. Trim a narrow piece of black closed cell foam, a good grade of black hackle 1 size undersize, a good pair of scissors and Zap a Gap is important.

Hook; #16 94840 Mustad
Thread; Black 8/0
Underbody; Closed cell foam, mid hook shank to back to bend
Abdomen; Black closed cell foam
Legs; black hackle to fit size #18 hook
Wing; white poly
Thorax; black closed cell foam

1. Thread base hook shank and bring thread about mid point on hook shank. Add Zap a Gap glue on top of thread. (this will hold foam in place)

2. Tie down closed cell foam towards back of hook to bend. Bring thread back to tie in point.

3. Abdomen. Fold cell foam over underbody and tie down.

4. Thread over a small section of the cell foam forming a narrow section between abdomen and thorax.
Tie in black hackle up against abdomen with hackle extending over hook bend.

5. Legs. Usually one or two wraps of good grade hackle is all you need for legs.

6. Wing post. Bring thread just behind loose cell foam and tie in wing post angling back through legs.

7. Bring thread just in front of loose foam and wrap thread to just shy of hook eye.

8. Thorax. Fold foam towards hook eye and tie down behind hook eye.

10; Finished ant

Here you can trim wing post to the length you want. Take a black permanent marker and cover wing post ends on thorax. Trim any excess to get a good profile of the ant. I always add a dab of head cement on finished head thread.

~doubletaper

Wednesday, January 28, 2015

Yellow Sally Tute

DT’s Yellow Sally Tute

This is a slow water pattern I use when yellow stoneflies are about.

Hook: 2x long dry #16
Thread: yellow
Tail: yellow feather fibers from a golden pheasant rump
Legs: light Blue Dun hackle feather palmered and trimmed top and bottom
Body: yellow Cryolin or dubbing
Wing: light Blue Dun Hackle
Collar: Light blue dun hackle
Head: yellow dubbing

 1. Thread base hook shank to bend

 2. Strip a cluster of yellow fibers from a golden pheasant rump feather and tie in over bend of hook about ¾ the length of hook.

3. Tie in a light Blue Dun rooster hackle feather at start of bend.

4. Dub body leaving plenty of room behind eye of hook for head and collar. I use yellow Poly Cryolin but any yellow dry fly dubbing will work. Keep body thin.

 5. Palmer hackle feather forward over body keeping even spaces. I trim the hackle top and bottom. Notice the segmentation on the body the hackle stem leaves?

6. Trim to length and secure another light Blue Dun hackle feather over body to the end tips of the tail as shown.
Top view

7. Collar: Secure a Blue dun hackle feather at tie in point of wing hackle. 1x oversize feather should do.

8. Dub a section behind hook eye and wrap hackle feather over and secure. Leave enough room behind hook eye for a dubbed head.

9. Dub a head and whip finish


 I tie a little green stonefly in the same fashion only using a size 2x long #18 dry fly hook














 

Sunday, January 25, 2015

Blood Dot Sucker Spawn

Blood Dot Sucker Spawn

 One of my favorite patterns for steelhead, here in Pennsylvania, is sucker spawn. Many fishermen around here use a simple Glo Bug pattern and sometimes add a blood dot. I thought, ‘why not add a blood dot to my sucker spawn pattern’? I also found using Glo Bug yarn instead of other yarn materials makes the sucker spawn a little more translucent when wet and easier to add a blood dot.
 I like to use curved hooks for steelhead when tying sucker spawn because of the wider gap in sizes #14 and #12 and sometimes even #16. Most heavy curved hooks are for Glo Bugs with 3x to 5x short shanks. Scud hooks are mostly the same with down eyes as I wanted a straight eye hook with a longer shank for the sucker spawn loops. My best find was J Stockard  #710 Nymph hook with straight eye, 1x strong, 2x short curved shank with a 2x wide gap. This gave me a small enough pattern and a long enough shank for my spawn loops.
Here’s my Sucker Spawn pattern using Glo Bug Yarn.

 DT’S Blood Dot Sucker Spawn

Hook: J Stockard #710 sizes #16 thru #12
Thread: Chartreuse
Spawn loops: Various Glo Bug Yarn
Blood Dot: Glo Bug Micro Yarn. Different color than sucker spawn.

1. Split a section of Glo Bug Yarn as shown. The thinner the more translucent.

 2. Thread base the hook shank to bend.

 3. Tie down yarn overhanging rear of hook as shown

4. Use bodkin needle to form small first loop on top of hook shank.
Tie down loop with 2 to three turns of thread.

5. Bring thread in front of loose end of yarn and wind twice up against yarn.

6. Form second loop a little larger than first securing the same way. (Remember to bring thread in front of yarn before proceeding to next loop)

 7. Make third loop a little larger than previous loop securing same way. Leave thread at tie down point. DO not wrap thread in front loose yarn.

8. Cut a piece of micro yarn and secure it down with thread on top of thread wraps you used to secure third loop.

9. Bring thread in front of loose yarn, as before, and create next loop about the same height of last.

10. Make last loop, behind eye, smaller than previous loop in same manner. Secure with a few extra thread wraps before next step.

 11. Using a half hitch tool, tube with hole in center, make two wraps with thread around tool and slide thread under yarn behind eye of hook. I usually make two half hitches before cutting thread.

12. Trim excess yarn above and behind hook eye and trim blood dot even with spawn loops. I add head cement to half hitch thread.

 Top view

Orange and red

 If I decide to add a bead, to get the spawn down in fast or deeper water, I use a standard wet fly hook in size #12

Sunshine Yellow and Orange

They work 




J Stockard web sight is;